I finally pulled the trigger on a couple of Flashpoint Studio 300 Monolights. They're due here tomorrow.
Any tips or suggestions? I've already got stands for them.
Strobes
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
-
- Posts: 870
- Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2012 7:01 pm
- Location: North Olmsted, Ohio, U.S.A.
- enricosavazzi
- Posts: 1474
- Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 2:41 pm
- Location: Västerås, Sweden
- Contact:
Re: Strobes
If the strobes will be used for illuminating small subjects on a table-top setup, floor stands may not be the best option (unless the columns are equipped with horizontal arms long enough to mount each strobe above the tabtletop). I find it better to hang a strobe down from such a horizontal arm, rather than mount it above the arm (it is better that the arm is not between strobe and table-top).Deanimator wrote:[...]Any tips or suggestions? I've already got stands for them.
For a limited coverage of free placement of the strobe (about 1 square meter of floor/table space) and a table placed against a wall, I use a wall-mounted arm (Manfrotto 098B, or the shorter version 098SHB that I prefer) attached on a wall as high up as possible, and a vertical boom (Manfrotto FF3249) with built-in adjustable counterweight spring to adjust the strobe height (I actually have two of these vertical booms, of different lengths, and the shorter of these is more useful).
See http://www.savazzi.net/photography/wall_arms.html
My setup as shown on the above page shows the arm attached to a wall above a cabinet, so I can swing the arm almost out of the way when not in use. A thing to remember is that the minimum length of the arm limits the placement of the strobe, so it is not a good idea to attach the arm right above the middle of the table (better to attach two arms about one meter away from either side of the table).
With respect to the above web page, I since replaced the improvised joint between arm and boom with an adjustable joint, as a workaround for the defective clamp at the end of the Manfrotto arm. In the above page I also describe a no-brand wall arm made in China that looks good in eBay ads but is pure junk.
In my previous house, I had more space available and a low ceiling, and there I built a small-scale rail system with aluminium profiles, which worked much the same as an ordinary studio ceiling rail system. The wall arm is easier to mount to a wall, though, if the wall is strong enough (only four drill holes in the wall, versus about 20 in the ceiling for the rail system).
When I moved the rail setup to another room, I also experimented with a frame of iron L profiles built around the table and resting on the floor, which did not need holes in the ceiling (only one in the wall for safety against tipping). This worked, but the four vertical posts holding up the rail system at each corner of the table sometimes got in the way.
--ES
-
- Posts: 870
- Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2012 7:01 pm
- Location: North Olmsted, Ohio, U.S.A.
Re: Strobes
That's an interesting setup. Unfortunately, I rent, so I can't do modifications to the premises.enricosavazzi wrote:If the strobes will be used for illuminating small subjects on a table-top setup, floor stands may not be the best option (unless the columns are equipped with horizontal arms long enough to mount each strobe above the tabtletop). I find it better to hang a strobe down from such a horizontal arm, rather than mount it above the arm (it is better that the arm is not between strobe and table-top).Deanimator wrote:[...]Any tips or suggestions? I've already got stands for them.
For a limited coverage of free placement of the strobe (about 1 square meter of floor/table space) and a table placed against a wall, I use a wall-mounted arm (Manfrotto 098B, or the shorter version 098SHB that I prefer) attached on a wall as high up as possible, and a vertical boom (Manfrotto FF3249) with built-in adjustable counterweight spring to adjust the strobe height (I actually have two of these vertical booms, of different lengths, and the shorter of these is more useful).
See http://www.savazzi.net/photography/wall_arms.html
My setup as shown on the above page shows the arm attached to a wall above a cabinet, so I can swing the arm almost out of the way when not in use. A thing to remember is that the minimum length of the arm limits the placement of the strobe, so it is not a good idea to attach the arm right above the middle of the table (better to attach two arms about one meter away from either side of the table).
With respect to the above web page, I since replaced the improvised joint between arm and boom with an adjustable joint, as a workaround for the defective clamp at the end of the Manfrotto arm. In the above page I also describe a no-brand wall arm made in China that looks good in eBay ads but is pure junk.
In my previous house, I had more space available and a low ceiling, and there I built a small-scale rail system with aluminium profiles, which worked much the same as an ordinary studio ceiling rail system. The wall arm is easier to mount to a wall, though, if the wall is strong enough (only four drill holes in the wall, versus about 20 in the ceiling for the rail system).
When I moved the rail setup to another room, I also experimented with a frame of iron L profiles built around the table and resting on the floor, which did not need holes in the ceiling (only one in the wall for safety against tipping). This worked, but the four vertical posts holding up the rail system at each corner of the table sometimes got in the way.
I'll give the stands a shot and see what happens. If necessary, I'll build something which attaches to the table.
- enricosavazzi
- Posts: 1474
- Joined: Sat Nov 21, 2009 2:41 pm
- Location: Västerås, Sweden
- Contact:
This is a poor phone picture of the frame I built around the table. The mobile rail is oriented obliquely near the top, and connected via double carriages to two fixed rails.
I attached this setup to the wall as a protection against tipping, but probably it would be stable enough if attached to the table, especially a heavy one.
I attached this setup to the wall as a protection against tipping, but probably it would be stable enough if attached to the table, especially a heavy one.
--ES
C stands are what you want, they are heavy duty (studio use) and have a long arm to position your strobe and the base can be positioned to not be in the way too much. I started off using regular light stands and soon realized they are not easily positioned, then got the boom arms which helped but the setup wasn't very stable. When I tried the C stands, that was the answer. Adorama has these, and sometimes you can bundle with a strobe for a $10~20 discount.
Search here for my LED replacement modeling bulbs for the Studio 300, these are not as bright as the supplied bulbs, put produce much less heat. They are useful for initial setup and can be used for continuous illumination. Also search for my analysis (circuit, measured output, uniformity, etc) for the Studio 300, they are the best value strobe for macro work I've found, and have built in RF Wireless (R2 compatible). I've got 8 in use now.
Best,
Search here for my LED replacement modeling bulbs for the Studio 300, these are not as bright as the supplied bulbs, put produce much less heat. They are useful for initial setup and can be used for continuous illumination. Also search for my analysis (circuit, measured output, uniformity, etc) for the Studio 300, they are the best value strobe for macro work I've found, and have built in RF Wireless (R2 compatible). I've got 8 in use now.
Best,
Research is like a treasure hunt, you don't know where to look or what you'll find!
~Mike
~Mike
-
- Posts: 870
- Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2012 7:01 pm
- Location: North Olmsted, Ohio, U.S.A.
-
- Posts: 870
- Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2012 7:01 pm
- Location: North Olmsted, Ohio, U.S.A.
My existing stands are probably going to be too short.
I ordered much bigger, heavier stands, plus a couple of 3" baby plates from Amazon. I was going to order a couple of 6" plates too, but they were out of stock from the Prime vendor, and the non-Prime shipping was brutal.
I'm still hunting around for dimmable LEDs for the modeling lights, but truth be told I don't need them immediately, since I've already got 300w CFLs and Jansjos which I use for focusing. I'll probably eventually get the eBay ones.
I ordered much bigger, heavier stands, plus a couple of 3" baby plates from Amazon. I was going to order a couple of 6" plates too, but they were out of stock from the Prime vendor, and the non-Prime shipping was brutal.
I'm still hunting around for dimmable LEDs for the modeling lights, but truth be told I don't need them immediately, since I've already got 300w CFLs and Jansjos which I use for focusing. I'll probably eventually get the eBay ones.
-
- Posts: 870
- Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2012 7:01 pm
- Location: North Olmsted, Ohio, U.S.A.
-
- Posts: 870
- Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2012 7:01 pm
- Location: North Olmsted, Ohio, U.S.A.
I got my full size stands yesterday. I should get the Smith-Victor table top plates today.
In the meantime I made a couple of "pigeon plates" with the "baby plates" and hardwood boards. I also made PVC bases for them into which I can insert various length legs.
See the technical images for a sample.
I'm very impressed with the results.
In the meantime I made a couple of "pigeon plates" with the "baby plates" and hardwood boards. I also made PVC bases for them into which I can insert various length legs.
See the technical images for a sample.
I'm very impressed with the results.