Macro Table

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Deanimator
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Macro Table

Post by Deanimator »

Lately, I've been doing as much woodworking (building macro support gear) as I have photography. I'm really starting to feel the lack of an actual workbench.

I've decided to build a workbench on which my drill press can go as well as any other small power tools I might have. I'll also build computers and clean guns on it.

I'm probably going to use Kee Klamp hardware since I don't have access to a working table saw and no place here to put one.

Having decided to build the workbench, I don't see any reason not to build the macro table I've been thinking about for several years. I'll probably build it first, since it'll be substantially smaller than the work bench and I'll gain experience.

Is there any downside to putting it on locking casters for mobility? The only place for any of this is my living room and it'd be nice to be able to move it out of the way when necessary.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

enricosavazzi
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Re: Macro Table

Post by enricosavazzi »

Deanimator wrote:...
Having decided to build the workbench, I don't see any reason not to build the macro table I've been thinking about for several years.
...
Is there any downside to putting it on locking casters for mobility? The only place for any of this is my living room and it'd be nice to be able to move it out of the way when necessary.
...
About the table in general: I assume the tabletop will have a relatively small area. If so, to increase stability mount the legs as close as possible to the corners of the tabletop. An overhanging tabletop makes the table less stable, and also gives you less space under the table for storage. You can add a couple of shelves among the legs for storage, or even a cabinet with doors under the tabletop. Leave about 10 cm clearance between the bottom shelf or cabinet bottom and the floor.

Choose the table height with your own height in mind, and whether you will stand or sit in front of the table. You don't want to stoop or stand on the tips of your toes.

Casters work fine in a general sense. There are however a few things to think about:

Casters that swivel at their base make it easier to maneuver the table around, compared with casters mounted in a fixed direction. However, with swiveling casters the contact point of the wheels with the floor moves when the casters turn. If the distance between the table legs is small and the wheel diameter is large, this makes the table less stable than with fixed casters.

When choosing caster types, consider:
  • The type of the floor (marble goes well with hard plastic tires, wood flooring with rubber tires or soft plastic tires).
    The total weight of the table and equipment, including storage under the table. Underdimensioned rubber tires can flatten if the table stays in one place for a few hours or a few days. Very underdimensioned casters may break off and overturn the table.
    Almost all soft tires, regardless of size, will flatten if a heavy table stays in the same place for months.
    Massive rubber tires are stronger and more wobble-free than air-filled ones, but air-filled tires are less vulnerable to permanently flatten under weight.
I recently built a small table (50 by 50 cm tabletop) with aluminium profiles to support an unusually heavy piece of equipment (around 50 Kg). I opted for fixed heavy-duty hard-plastic feet (specifically made for the 45 x 45 mm profile I used, and rated at well over 100 Kg load each) rather than casters. I can still push the table around a little when I need to get to the back of the equipment, without leaving marks on a hardwood floor.
Last edited by enricosavazzi on Sun Jun 24, 2018 11:25 pm, edited 2 times in total.
--ES

Deanimator
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Re: Macro Table

Post by Deanimator »

enricosavazzi wrote:About the table in general: I assume the tabletop will have a relatively small area. If so, to increase stability mount the legs as close as possible to the corners of the tabletop. An overhanging tabletop makes the table less stable, and also gives you less space under the table for storage. You can add a couple of shelves among the legs for storage, or even a cabinet with doors under the tabletop. Leave about 10 cm clearance between the bottom shelf or cabinet bottom and the floor.
I'm looking at a 2 foot by 4 foot by 3/4 inch sanded plywood top with just enough overhang to clamp my CFL studio lamps on the edge the way I have them now.

I am indeed thinking about drawers underneath. I think that Ikea makes something that will screw to the bottom of the table top.

I'll be using locking swiveling casters for convenience of movement and stationary stability.

Thanks for your suggestions.

I might start as soon as this weekend, since one of the local home supply stores sells at least some of the components, as well as the plywood for the top.

Deanimator
Posts: 870
Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2012 7:01 pm
Location: North Olmsted, Ohio, U.S.A.

Post by Deanimator »

I bought the last of the metal parts (minus screws) tonight.

I was going to use 1-1/4 in pipe but that would have been ridiculously overbuilt. I switched to 3/4 in which is going to be rock solid.

I still need to buy the top, but won't be able to get it home until I empty out the trunk.

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