How do I build a more stable setup?

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cube-tube
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How do I build a more stable setup?

Post by cube-tube »

Hello,

I have a background in macro photography, so I'm used to setting up a shot with clamps, rails, and tripods. I have been using tripods to hold my camera and specimens for 1-10x magnification, but I'm struggling to keep the system stable for 20-50x magnification. Between frames, my subject can shift slightly forward or back or side to side, which leads to messy stacks. I'm guessing that the motion is due to vibration or maybe even air currents.

I have seen some people build a rig around aluminum rails, wood boards, or a microscope base.

Where should I start if I want to build a more rock-solid setup?

Thanks

rjlittlefield
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Post by rjlittlefield »

There are lots of viable options. Look through the posts linked at http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 5311#55311 to see a good variety.

How are you stepping focus for 20-50X?

What sort of budget are you looking at?

--Rik

cube-tube
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Post by cube-tube »

Thanks for showing me that that's great!

I have a pretty unconventional method of stepping focus. My specimen is on top of a lubricated rail that can slide back and forth with some friction. I have a micrometer attached to the base of that rail to push the rail forward. The micrometer is coupled to a stepper motor driven by an Arduino, which also controls the timing of the shutter and flashes.

It's tough to give a set budget because it really has to do with the cost/benefit ratio... If I were investing in a nice microscope I would think around $500 or more depending on the value of the optics it comes with... If I'm just looking at some aluminum rails that I would have no other use for then less than $100.

Chris S.
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Post by Chris S. »

Cube-tube,

The key element most stable rigs have in common is some way of mechanically coupling the camera and subject, which greatly reduces relative motion between them. On a microscope, this coupling mechanism is the microscope's frame. In macro rigs, it is usually a flat plate to which both the subject and camera are securely mounted. Removing your tripods from the equation, and replacing them with some form of rigid plate, is likely your low-hanging fruit.

There has been debate over what material such plates are best made out of, but this probably matters little compared with the presence/absence of such a plate. My personal preference is steel. Others may prefer aluminum, granite, cement, or wood. A sturdy piece of wood can be cheap and easy to work with--suggest you consider such a thing as your next step.

--Chris S.

rjlittlefield
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Post by rjlittlefield »

Thanks for the info about your focus-stepper. That sounds like it'll work great.

I agree completely with Chris's recommendation. You want the linkage between camera and subject to be as short, stiff, and energy-absorbing as possible. A sturdy base of wood is a great place to start. Over the years I've gradually migrated from a wood frame made of 2x4's and 3/4" plywood, to an optical breadboard. The later setups are much more adaptable and easier to work with, but for just making clean stacks I don't feel much difference.

--Rik

cube-tube
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Post by cube-tube »

Thanks, Chris. That's a very helpful tip.

Chris S.
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Post by Chris S. »

Cube-tube, you're very welcome. :D

You and Rik posted at almost the same time--don't miss his post!

Do let us know how this works out for you, will you?

Cheers,

--Chris S.

cube-tube
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Location: Durham, NC

Post by cube-tube »

Oh thanks Rik!

I really like the idea of an optical breadboard. I'll keep my eye out for a good deal.

Beatsy
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Post by Beatsy »

I think nearly everything has been said already and you'll see there's many ways to skin this particular cat. I recently posted a question regarding vibration reduction at high mag and got plenty of useful feedback. It left me in a bit of a quandary though - I couldn't decide whether a steel or concrete base would be better. I like steel for attaching magnetic stands, but the "deadness" of a slab of concrete appealed too. So I used both (with different-sized sorbothane feet under each layer). The optical rail is bolted into tapped holes in the 10mm plate. It worked a charm - now vibration free up to 50x, yay!

Image

cube-tube
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Post by cube-tube »

Wow! That's a killer setup Beatsy! I really like the use of the portable monitor as well. I have tried shooting tethered to a computer, but that's almost as awkward as looking at the camera's screen.

I'm surprised that you don't use speedlights. I guess being able to use hotlights is a testament to how stable that setup really is.

cube-tube
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Joined: Tue Oct 10, 2017 7:50 am
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Post by cube-tube »

Update: I bought an optical breadboard and I LOVE it. Wish I had done it sooner. I'll post my setup on here one of these days.

Thanks guys!

The breadboard:
http://www.baselabtools.com/4-in-x-24-i ... _p_25.html

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