I have some experience in birphoto's in high speed like this one
I reduced the shutterlag to the absolute minimum by setting al to manual.
No AF, manual mode, manual white balance. Manual lens. Every automatic function causes the cam to measure and calculate that takes time. In my new canera (pentax K5) I can even klick the mirror up before so I only have to actuate the shutter.
In the picture above I used the fasted sensor that can think, my, myself
I made a long cable remote (20m) a wide angle (24mm). The image was frozen with a Metz45 flash hammer.
Another low cost studio setup
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
Guido, thanks for the tips. However, I do have quite a lot of experience with shooting birds; even sold couple of pics of that kind. Unfortunately, insects are very different kettle of fish. Can't elaborate right now (Cause I'm on the beach right now with a smartphone) but you can trust me on that.
All things are number - Pythagoras
Bird foto's like these are a complete different thing then most bird in flight pictures. The one above and this one are made with 1/20.000 second.
This should do for insects in flight to.
Take a look at this one http://www.astapix.be/forum/GF_0073_vlucht2_1.jpg
This should do for insects in flight to.
Take a look at this one http://www.astapix.be/forum/GF_0073_vlucht2_1.jpg
Thanks Blame. Hoping it's not just Foolsday joke!
Seriously, after six months and another stacking setup away, it still doesn't seem a bad idea after all. The main problem and the reason I dismantled this contraption is bad components quality. Those Chinese rails are simply too flimsy and introduce too much vibrations.
Another reason I quit on this one is painstaking manual stepping and resolution good to about 4:1. However, vibrations limited the whole setup to about 1:1. Otoh, experience gained with this one helped a lot with a motorized setup I presented some time ago: http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... hp?t=22310
Seriously, after six months and another stacking setup away, it still doesn't seem a bad idea after all. The main problem and the reason I dismantled this contraption is bad components quality. Those Chinese rails are simply too flimsy and introduce too much vibrations.
Another reason I quit on this one is painstaking manual stepping and resolution good to about 4:1. However, vibrations limited the whole setup to about 1:1. Otoh, experience gained with this one helped a lot with a motorized setup I presented some time ago: http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... hp?t=22310
All things are number - Pythagoras
LED's - flash!
I think your beautiful little LED lights are brilliant!
Now all we need is a small flash-tube mounted just in front of the LED (hopefully would not get too hot?).....this controlled with a separate remote box allowing full variable control of flash output (something like the Vivitar 283 with vari-power module!)
Now all we need is a small flash-tube mounted just in front of the LED (hopefully would not get too hot?).....this controlled with a separate remote box allowing full variable control of flash output (something like the Vivitar 283 with vari-power module!)
Re: Another low cost studio setup
Could you say more about that micrometer modified rail?
Re: Another low cost studio setup
Hi Miljenko,
I'm new here. Found this setup of yours and looks very interesting. I'm trying to built rail using micrometer and Fotomatte rail like you have in your setup (single axis). I have 5dmk3 and mpe65 and that combo is quite heavy (5kg) Fotomatte seems very untight and it moves around for precision work. Is yours tight and precise? Do I have broken one? Can you post a picture from below the rail, so I can see how you fix micrometer to it?
Thanks in advance
I'm from Split. You are from Croatia?
I'm new here. Found this setup of yours and looks very interesting. I'm trying to built rail using micrometer and Fotomatte rail like you have in your setup (single axis). I have 5dmk3 and mpe65 and that combo is quite heavy (5kg) Fotomatte seems very untight and it moves around for precision work. Is yours tight and precise? Do I have broken one? Can you post a picture from below the rail, so I can see how you fix micrometer to it?
Thanks in advance
I'm from Split. You are from Croatia?
Photographer