Cheaper alternative of Nikon MM-11

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zzffnn
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Cheaper alternative of Nikon MM-11

Post by zzffnn »

Edit:

I bought what looks like the Nikon version of BHMJ, without stand/pole. Please take a look at my post #4 (which contains eBay photos) in this thread.

Image

I am semi-joking here :shock: :lol: . Of course, performance won't be close to Nikon MM-11. But it should adequate for reflected light macro at less than objective NA 0.25 and total visual magnification less than 150x (minimum 5x). Mainly for thick (1-2 cm) micro crystal clusters and mid-sized/large insects and casual stacking.

The Lego piece, shown there just to show my idea, will be replaced by a metal specimen holder, which will screw onto slide holder to provide XYZ movements. Travel range of the headless stand in the photo is only about 3-3.5cm (1-2 micron fine travel), but I may need around 12cm. So we may have to make 2-3 such specimen holders of different heights or add a sliding mechanism to its vertical part.

Can you do better for cheaper? :twisted: If there is an off-the-shelf solution that does not cost over $200, I may consider. Please keep in mind that I do not have a macro lens, though I have plenty of microscope objectives from 1x NA 0.05 and up. I do need a long and precise focus travel and sample movement in XYZ axises. Casual / cheap / educational type of user here looking for only decent images, no Mr. Krebs, as you can tell :wink:

Edit: I need a vertical focus rig, not a horizontal rig. Thank you.
Last edited by zzffnn on Sun Jan 29, 2017 3:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by ChrisR »

(1-2 micron fine travel) ?? Millimetres I expect, but point taken.


If you use an Olympus CH-2 or similar, you get ~30mm travel with fine focus all the way, 200µ per rev, so 1 micron steps are possible.

Some Leitz, and Nikon stands are good too - isn't your Labophot suitable?
You can of course use a normal slide holder for x-y.
I've bought 2-3 Oly CH2s with and without optics, all well under £100.

If you use a CH-30, the horizontal arm unscrews, leaving a vertical flat surface. It's annoyingly small, but with a couple of "planks" or box sections, you can remount it higher, on eg an iShoot rail or just Arca rails.
Then you can dismantle to reuse withe condenser if you want to.

If you take the stage off a CH2, you're left with the condenser holder. That gives you a lot more height, especially if you put the holder in upside down. You then need a specimen holder to use on the ring, but that's ok.

I posted a picture , somewhere...


found it
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 6158#56158
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Post by zzffnn »

ChrisR,

Perhaps my ugly illustration photo and joking tone made you underestimate my DIY rig.

That headless scope, shown in my photo, can do 30 mm total travel and 1-2 micron steps (vertically) as it is. I simply need to make a metal specimen holder to replace that Lego part and hold it down with screws. Then made the travel longer.

I am already using the slide holder/stage, exactly the way as you mentioned in the quoted part below. If I derstood you correctly. Though it is not showing well in my photo. Labophot 2 stage works the same way too.

Many condenser holder can come off, as you mentioned. The LOMO Biolam, the scope with objectives, as shown in my photo, had its condenser/holder and stage/holder removed.

What is the total travel range of BHMJ? Thank you.
ChrisR wrote: ..........
You can of course use a normal slide holder for x-y.........

If you use a CH-30, the horizontal arm unscrews, leaving a vertical flat surface. It's annoyingly small, but with a couple of "planks" or box sections, you can remount it higher.........
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Post by ChrisR »

Ah - I thought
about 3-3.5cm (1-2 micron fine travel)
wasn't quite right , & wasn't sure what you meant.

CH30 isn't like yours - I'll find a picture.

BHMJ is much the same travel, 30mm or so, 200µm/rev. It mounts on a pole though, as I expect you know.
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Post by zzffnn »

Thank you very much, ChrisR.

I saw some BHMJ on eBay and think the original metal pole is too short. Do you think one can easily replace it with a longer off-the-shelf pole? Some eBay pricing is tempting.

I am fine with whatever works. If CH30 works similarly as what I already have, then it won't add much (no need to find me photos, but thank you very much for your kind offer).

Sorry for the confusion of my wording.
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zzffnn
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Post by zzffnn »

I bought this one just now, which looks like a Nikon focus block with pole mount and a bino head:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172290567109

Does anyone knows the correct pole diameter, or have one to sell?
I need to sell off the bino head, as I have two already.

I also bought this one, but not sure if I have use for it:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/262639503159?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

Maybe I should return the second item? How do I use it?
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Post by Chris S. »

Fan,
zzffnn wrote:I saw some BHMJ on eBay and think the original metal pole is too short. Do you think one can easily replace it with a longer off-the-shelf pole?
If you're still interested in BHMJ blocks after your purchase of the Nikon, see this post and later posts in the thread.

--Chris S.

zzffnn
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Post by zzffnn »

Thank you, Chris S..

I am only interested in the Nikon now. My scope heads and imaging system is all in the Nikon family, so I would have to go that way to save money and space.

I wish I started with Olympus though.

Let us hope the Nikon use the same pole diameter as the Olympus. If that is the case, is there still a good pole/base that is not too expensive?
Selling my Canon FD 200mm F/2.8 lens

zzffnn
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Post by zzffnn »

It looks like the mounting pole diameter for Nikon focus block is 24.5 mm:

http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... sc&start=0
Selling my Canon FD 200mm F/2.8 lens

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Post by ChrisR »

As I said I would, here's a phone snap of a CH-30 I forgot was lurking under the dining table - with early attempt at making it useful. Red-lined part is in fact parallel-sided. Later mod metal instead of wood - and PB-5 on Arca rail, centred over the condenser.
Image
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Post by zzffnn »

A headless Frankenstein lurking under the dinner table :twisted:

Thank you, Chris R. That is certainly the other way to do extreme macro.......
Selling my Canon FD 200mm F/2.8 lens

zzffnn
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Post by zzffnn »

So this Nikon focus block came in good shape. Everything works. Surprisingly heavy.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/172290567109

Hole for pole mount is indeed 24.5 mm. I measured it 4 times and can be sure that it is between 24.50 and 24.58 mm. Now I need a pole and base for it.

Coarse focus is slightly tight, though fine focus is perfect. Should I lube it? How do I open it?

I will sell the extra binocular head (which fits Labophot 2 and Labophot/Optiphot) to recover some cost, in the Equipment Exchange section.
Selling my Canon FD 200mm F/2.8 lens

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Post by Chris S. »

zzffnn wrote:Coarse focus is slightly tight, though fine focus is perfect. Should I lube it? How do I open it?
Something to check first is to see if this block has adjustable friction. Not all Nikon blocks have this, but most of the ones I've seen do. If so, you'll find an adjustment ring coaxial to, and inboard of, one of the coarse adjustment knobs. Studying the eBay pictures, it appears there is no such ring on the unticked side; but the ticked side isn't shown clearly enough to tell, so I'd look there.

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Post by zzffnn »

Thank you, Chris S.

The other side of the coarse focus is exactly the same. I turned left and right side of the coarse focus in opposite directions, but that only locks or releases the coarse focus. No tightness adjustment.
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Post by mjkzz »

I have NO knowledge about microscopes, but recent experience tells me that a good granite check stand can be very good for stability. Though these stands come with claimed 25mm pole, mine was actually 24.3mm in diameter.

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