Lighting for macro photography of fern gametophytes
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
I just tried the first of two adapters with my microscope objectives. It allowed me to put the 20x objective on a 100mm 1:1 f/2.8 macro lens (to get 10x magnification) and to try using the internal focusing motor for focus stacking. The motor worked well and the image looked nice on live view, but getting a properly lit photograph was very difficult. I might wait now until the other adapter arrives to let me try the 10x on a 200mm zoom (to also get 10x magnification). I think that may be easier to work.
I have attached the screenshot of the live view, and really rubbishy photographs that I was able to take. I'm not sure this setup was a huge success. :-) Fingers crossed for the next. :-)
Live view screenshot:
Actual photo:
I have attached the screenshot of the live view, and really rubbishy photographs that I was able to take. I'm not sure this setup was a huge success. :-) Fingers crossed for the next. :-)
Live view screenshot:
Actual photo:
Hi,
I have tried the 10x Nikon objective (Nikon Plan Fluor 10x/0.30 Ph1 DLL infinity / 0.17 WD 16.0) with my canon zoom 80-200mm f/4.5-5.6 lens.
I'm not sure the result was that great. I used a circular polarising filter on the camera. I tried putting polarising filter (Edmunds optics) over the flashes, but then there was not enough light to take a photo.
I did the stacking using the internal focussing motor in the zoom lens and stacked with Helicon Focus.
This is the stacked photo:
and the lens setup:
This is the shot that I took with the MP-E and 4cm extension tubes:
and this is the MP-E setup:
There was no polarisation on the second photo.
I'd be glad to hear any thoughts on what I should do next.
Thanks!
Jennifer
I have tried the 10x Nikon objective (Nikon Plan Fluor 10x/0.30 Ph1 DLL infinity / 0.17 WD 16.0) with my canon zoom 80-200mm f/4.5-5.6 lens.
I'm not sure the result was that great. I used a circular polarising filter on the camera. I tried putting polarising filter (Edmunds optics) over the flashes, but then there was not enough light to take a photo.
I did the stacking using the internal focussing motor in the zoom lens and stacked with Helicon Focus.
This is the stacked photo:
and the lens setup:
This is the shot that I took with the MP-E and 4cm extension tubes:
and this is the MP-E setup:
There was no polarisation on the second photo.
I'd be glad to hear any thoughts on what I should do next.
Thanks!
Jennifer
Hi Chris,
Are you still around out there? I need to send my competition entry off soon, but can't do it without your agreement to be included as a collaborator. I don't need your comments or anything on the manuscript if you are busy, just an okay that you're happy with it as it is - if you are. :-)
Thanks!
Jennifer
Are you still around out there? I need to send my competition entry off soon, but can't do it without your agreement to be included as a collaborator. I don't need your comments or anything on the manuscript if you are busy, just an okay that you're happy with it as it is - if you are. :-)
Thanks!
Jennifer
Hello!
I'm back again after being off in the wilds trying to find out how to raise the money to build a good macro photography system. I have now found a grant call that I can apply to to try to raise the money to build a system and I am just pricing up parts so that I can list all of the costs.
I wondered if I could ask for a spot of advice?
I've been looking into building something like Chris S's Bratcam, and he's given me a lot of hints offline, however I can't seem to get in touch with him just now.
He suggested using a focus block from Prior like this:
http://www.prior-us.com/Products/Focus- ... FB201.aspx
I am now looking into figuring which thread adapter I would need to buy in order to attach the camera to the top. I wondered if you would have any idea?
I have uploaded the technical diagram showing which attachment points it has.
Chris also said I could cut a focus block out of an old microscope but that is beyond my skill, and I can't really quote for that in a grant proposal anyway. This focus block is a known and reliable option, which makes it more suitable for me.
Chris says that a stackshot rail will not work well at the high magnifications that I am considering, and I want to build my own controller with a raspberry pi.
Thanks ever so much for looking at it.
I'm back again after being off in the wilds trying to find out how to raise the money to build a good macro photography system. I have now found a grant call that I can apply to to try to raise the money to build a system and I am just pricing up parts so that I can list all of the costs.
I wondered if I could ask for a spot of advice?
I've been looking into building something like Chris S's Bratcam, and he's given me a lot of hints offline, however I can't seem to get in touch with him just now.
He suggested using a focus block from Prior like this:
http://www.prior-us.com/Products/Focus- ... FB201.aspx
I am now looking into figuring which thread adapter I would need to buy in order to attach the camera to the top. I wondered if you would have any idea?
I have uploaded the technical diagram showing which attachment points it has.
Chris also said I could cut a focus block out of an old microscope but that is beyond my skill, and I can't really quote for that in a grant proposal anyway. This focus block is a known and reliable option, which makes it more suitable for me.
Chris says that a stackshot rail will not work well at the high magnifications that I am considering, and I want to build my own controller with a raspberry pi.
Thanks ever so much for looking at it.
This is the system that I'm hoping to mount on top:
Canon 5D MkII
with either of
- Canon MP-E lens
or
- 20X Mitutoyo Plan Apo Infinity Corrected Long WD Objective or
- 10X Mitutoyo Plan Apo Infinity Corrected Long WD Objective
attached to Canon EF 200mm f/2.8 L II USM
using adapters:
75mm to 52mm adapter
BD M26 36tpi microscope objective to M52 52mm adapter
I'm obviously looking for really solid stability to avoid the whole heavy system wobbling on top.
Canon 5D MkII
with either of
- Canon MP-E lens
or
- 20X Mitutoyo Plan Apo Infinity Corrected Long WD Objective or
- 10X Mitutoyo Plan Apo Infinity Corrected Long WD Objective
attached to Canon EF 200mm f/2.8 L II USM
using adapters:
75mm to 52mm adapter
BD M26 36tpi microscope objective to M52 52mm adapter
I'm obviously looking for really solid stability to avoid the whole heavy system wobbling on top.
Hi,
I've just been fooling around with lenses and got this photo.
It was taking with Canon 5d MkII with Canon 100mm f/208 1:1 macro and a Nikon Plan fluor ELWD 20x/0.45 microscope objective giving x10 magnification.
It was lit with three Yongnuo IV flashes through thick printer paper. The subject was against a black background, but it came out white.
The focus stacking was done using the internal motor in the lens. It only just had enough travel to cover the thickness of the subject. Compiled using Helicon focus.
Do you think if I had managed to get the background black this would be a plausible photo?
Thanks!
Jen
I've just been fooling around with lenses and got this photo.
It was taking with Canon 5d MkII with Canon 100mm f/208 1:1 macro and a Nikon Plan fluor ELWD 20x/0.45 microscope objective giving x10 magnification.
It was lit with three Yongnuo IV flashes through thick printer paper. The subject was against a black background, but it came out white.
The focus stacking was done using the internal motor in the lens. It only just had enough travel to cover the thickness of the subject. Compiled using Helicon focus.
Do you think if I had managed to get the background black this would be a plausible photo?
Thanks!
Jen
It still doesn't have the nice depth of this one:
Perhaps I should just stick with the MP-E and get the lighting right? Hum.
I'm now dithering between the MP-E, the objective and 200mm prime combination, and the idea of using an actual trinocular microscope with the DSLR mounted on top. It's tricky to know which is right without being able to try them.
Perhaps I should just stick with the MP-E and get the lighting right? Hum.
I'm now dithering between the MP-E, the objective and 200mm prime combination, and the idea of using an actual trinocular microscope with the DSLR mounted on top. It's tricky to know which is right without being able to try them.