Please advise, What wrong with my camera setup?
Moderators: rjlittlefield, ChrisR, Chris S., Pau
Please advise, What wrong with my camera setup?
I was hooked my camera Canon EOS 6D via Y-T tube + C-mount-EF adapter(with out lens) as showing in the pictures
When I have been taken photo its showing dark area around the photo, seem not full frame. What I should be done in this regard?
[/img]http://imageshack.com/a/img850/8328/jjpb.jpg[img]
[/img]http://imageshack.com/a/img840/1705/vzyi.jpg[img]
Best Regards,[/img]
When I have been taken photo its showing dark area around the photo, seem not full frame. What I should be done in this regard?
[/img]http://imageshack.com/a/img850/8328/jjpb.jpg[img]
[/img]http://imageshack.com/a/img840/1705/vzyi.jpg[img]
Best Regards,[/img]
IMHO, this is acceptable Field Of View. Just crop it. Not bad for start. First one is either not precisely focused or it is camera vibration.
If it is not focus issue, try longer exposure (over 1 sec) or shorter if illumination could be set brighter (or increase ISO on camera, but not to much).
If it is not focus issue, try longer exposure (over 1 sec) or shorter if illumination could be set brighter (or increase ISO on camera, but not to much).
Nenad
I can think of 2 possible reasons for the vignetting.
1) Your objectives do not produce an image that is large enough to cover the full-frame sensor in your EOS 6D.
2) A C-mount is 25.4 mm in diameter. Your sensor has a diagonal of 43 mm. This combination is likely to cause vignetting.
Have you tried removing the adapters and holding your camera above the trinocular head?
Alan Wood
1) Your objectives do not produce an image that is large enough to cover the full-frame sensor in your EOS 6D.
2) A C-mount is 25.4 mm in diameter. Your sensor has a diagonal of 43 mm. This combination is likely to cause vignetting.
Have you tried removing the adapters and holding your camera above the trinocular head?
Alan Wood
- Charles Krebs
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- Location: Issaquah, WA USA
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As Alan mentioned, the C-mount is likely too narrow.
But what (if any) photo projection lens or optics to you have in the trinocular tube?
The 6D sensor is larger than the image formed by the objective. Normally you would provide an additional magnification of somewhere between 1.6X and 2.5X in the trinocular tube.
Which 10X eyepieces are you using?
10x20
10x22
10x25
The best magnification for the trinocular tube generally depends on the field -of-view (FN) of the eyepieces used (So you get a good match in the camera with what you see through the eyepieces).
But what (if any) photo projection lens or optics to you have in the trinocular tube?
The 6D sensor is larger than the image formed by the objective. Normally you would provide an additional magnification of somewhere between 1.6X and 2.5X in the trinocular tube.
Which 10X eyepieces are you using?
10x20
10x22
10x25
The best magnification for the trinocular tube generally depends on the field -of-view (FN) of the eyepieces used (So you get a good match in the camera with what you see through the eyepieces).
Dear Sir,
Very Thank you for your informative advisory.
My microscope eyepieces are 10X/20 and the trinocular port seem have no additional magnify lenses.
I have tried to remove Y-T Phototube and connected C-mount (With out lens) directly to trinocular port, But the result is almost same.
// Objective 4X result
// Objective 10x result
Very Thank you for your informative advisory.
My microscope eyepieces are 10X/20 and the trinocular port seem have no additional magnify lenses.
I have tried to remove Y-T Phototube and connected C-mount (With out lens) directly to trinocular port, But the result is almost same.
// Objective 4X result
// Objective 10x result
-
- Posts: 5090
- Joined: Sun Jan 15, 2012 12:31 pm
Photo tube
As Charles said, you need a relay lens in the photo tube, usually a 10x, but then you run into parfocality issues between the tube and the eyepieces.
Michael Reese Much FRMS EMS Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, USA
Parfocality between the viewing eyepieces and the camera image is allways very convenient and almost a must with high power (high NA) objectives.
Is it in each of your setups parfocal?
If you place the camera at parfocal position over the phototube without the C mount adapter (or better, without the upper phototube part with a bellows like in your bellows setup) and you still get vignette as other said you need some relay magnification.
Direct projection with a 10X eyepiece (as it seems in your third setup picture) is of course doable, even a classic system, but not the most convenient because you're using the optics well outside its desing.
IMO the best approaches will be:
1. Mount a Nikon CF projective eyepiece (2X or 2.5X) in the phototube at parfocal position and a bellows/tube adapter to hold the camera over it at the right distance (likely the best approach with your microscope)
-something like the Charles Krebs ones:
http://www.krebsmicro.com/microsetup2/index.html
http://micropix.home.comcast.net/~micro ... index.html
2. Mount a Nikon CF visual type high eyepoint 10X eyepiece in the phototube at parfocal position and 50mm camera prime lens, what is called "afocal" setup. You will get 2X relay magnification
- somethig like my first setup:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 9265#99265
3. Mount a good quality teleconverter (2X, but also 1.4X may be convenient) with an empty adapter without any other relay optics. Seems to work very well.
- Discussed here:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 322#146322
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 505#146505
Is it in each of your setups parfocal?
If you place the camera at parfocal position over the phototube without the C mount adapter (or better, without the upper phototube part with a bellows like in your bellows setup) and you still get vignette as other said you need some relay magnification.
Direct projection with a 10X eyepiece (as it seems in your third setup picture) is of course doable, even a classic system, but not the most convenient because you're using the optics well outside its desing.
IMO the best approaches will be:
1. Mount a Nikon CF projective eyepiece (2X or 2.5X) in the phototube at parfocal position and a bellows/tube adapter to hold the camera over it at the right distance (likely the best approach with your microscope)
-something like the Charles Krebs ones:
http://www.krebsmicro.com/microsetup2/index.html
http://micropix.home.comcast.net/~micro ... index.html
2. Mount a Nikon CF visual type high eyepoint 10X eyepiece in the phototube at parfocal position and 50mm camera prime lens, what is called "afocal" setup. You will get 2X relay magnification
- somethig like my first setup:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 9265#99265
3. Mount a good quality teleconverter (2X, but also 1.4X may be convenient) with an empty adapter without any other relay optics. Seems to work very well.
- Discussed here:
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 322#146322
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... 505#146505
Pau
Dear Sir,
Thank you so much,
I have been tried as per you are advisory by unscrew Y-T photo tube and insert eyepiece inside as showing below :
Then connected to camera and microscope.
// The result found very good and I am happy in this regard.
1) Objective 4X
2) Objective 10X
3) Objective 40x
And Other photo
1) Objective 4X
2) Objective 10X
------------------------------------------
Thank you again and again.
Best Regards,
Thank you so much,
I have been tried as per you are advisory by unscrew Y-T photo tube and insert eyepiece inside as showing below :
Then connected to camera and microscope.
// The result found very good and I am happy in this regard.
1) Objective 4X
2) Objective 10X
3) Objective 40x
And Other photo
1) Objective 4X
2) Objective 10X
------------------------------------------
Thank you again and again.
Best Regards,