A little introduction! (My story so far with pics)

Starting out in microscopy? Post images and ask questions relating to the microscope and get answers from our more advanced users on the subject.

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MattRandom
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu Aug 09, 2012 8:17 am
Location: Portsmouth, England

A little introduction! (My story so far with pics)

Post by MattRandom »

Good morning to you all.

My name is Matt, Im a 28 year old DJ from the south of England with a new found passion for photomicrography! I have been lurking these forums for a couple weeks now and thought it was about time I made myself known!

I'll give you all a bit of background on where I am today and how I got here.
This post is fairly image heavy but all images are hosted on imgur so as not to destroy site bandwidth or break gallery rules, If this breaks any rules please could a mod let me know so i might rectify the problem.

It should also be noted that prior to this i had exactly ZERO experience with microscopes or macro/micro photography.
Recently (around 6 months ago) my 4 year old son expressed an interest in 'bugs', i saw this as a perfect opportunity to purchase a small microscope so we could take a closer look. Now obviously a 4 year old is going to have a problem trying to look through a monocular eyepiece so a video eyepiece was essential. after a few evenings of searching for the ideal solution i settled on a Bresser Biolux AL which we picked up for the bargain price of £28!

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It had 4x, 10x and 40x objectives, came with a number of ready prepared slides and the camera output a toy like 640x480 image of a shocking quality.

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"fly leg" @ 10x

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"fly leg" @ 40x

None the less it was enough to get the pair of us completely hooked and so begins a steady spiral of bank account draining!

Firstly that camera had to go, after a bit of searching around I found a 1.3mp camera of a vastly superior quality that had been very well looked after and seemed to tick all the right boxes (including price luckily) as seen here

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This allowed us to capture images such as these, however due to the cameras weight and the angled tube, frequent halos and flares required some inventive shimming to cure.

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Mantis shed under 4x objective

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The same shed @ 40x

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Salt crystal @ 40x

It was about this time that i became utterly consumed by a fascination with all things tiny, I wanted to go beyond 40x and I desperately wanted alternative lighting options, increased working distance and a much needed upgrade in optics.
I accepted living with a perpetually open wallet and began the search for something "a bit better" much to the horror of the wife to be.

after a week or so of research I realised that industrial Metallurgical microscopes were spiraling down in price, I would guess due to the increased availability of zoom microscopes, so i had my eyes on a prize.
Roll forward a few more weeks and with an ebay watch list that resembled that of a budding mad scientist I stumbled upon what I think was the deal of the century.

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Shown here with the Bresser for comparison. Yes, it was a bit larger than i though from the pictures i had seen on ebay!

It is a Union (tokyo) Examet 1 from, i believe, 1992, a quick clean up showed it to be in immaculate condition.
It came with 5 union Infinity plan achromat objectives,
x5/0.10,
x10/0.20,
x20/0.40,
x40/0.65 and,
x100/0.90 (dry)
and has halogen Vertical illumination with 2 filter slots, aperture diameter adjustment and a field diaphragm, a Prism (100-50/50 i think) Trinocular head and course and fine (with numerical increments) focus. I checked all 3 axis for slop or wobble and thankfully found none.
Excited to take it out for a spin I checked my pockets for change and gave it a go.

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Working distance is superb.

a little bit of playing and tweaking garnered results like this

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Corrosion on the copper plated steel surface of a new UK 1p coin. 40x objective.

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Same patch under the 100x before I had the lens cleaned.

I was blown away by the difference in clarity and resolving power and wanted to do more with it, thats when I stumbled across this forum.
Now i would like to thank you all from the bottom of my heart, although you might not know it, you have all helped me more than i could ever imagine! The skills, equipment and results on display here are incredible. Queue some late nights reading and absorbing reams of information and it was obvious I needed to to do 2 things fast, Focus stacking and better lighting, the lighting is a work in progress and I'm unfortunately currently limited to halogen with no filters (so please excuse the colour!) but i present to you all (with many thanks) my first 'Decent' Photomicrograph.

Image
Click for Original size
Sugar under 10x objective 50 stack using Zerene (thank you SO much for this amazing piece of software, watching the image as it pieces together is incredible)

And here we arrive at today, my next plan is some software calibration to display scale, some ideas for cold lighting and diffusion and the search for a polarizer/analyzer set with retarder plates that wont bankrupt me, the nosepiece has slots for all 3 (at least that's what I think they are) which are begging to be filled!

Any advice/tips/criticism (constructive or hillarious) would be gratefully received but you can consider me your newest assimilation :lol:

All the best guys!
Matt

Chris S.
Site Admin
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Location: Ohio, USA

Post by Chris S. »

Welcome to the forum, Matt!

It was fun reading your story. Rest assured, the urge to spend ever more on this will never go away. . . .

Rather than purchasing colored filters, can you set the white balance of your camera to the proper color temperature for your halogen lights? You should also be able to correct it in Photoshop, Gimp (freeware), or other post-processing software.

Cheers!

--Chris

MattRandom
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu Aug 09, 2012 8:17 am
Location: Portsmouth, England

Post by MattRandom »

Chris S. wrote:Welcome to the forum, Matt!

It was fun reading your story. Rest assured, the urge to spend ever more on this will never go away. . . .

Rather than purchasing colored filters, can you set the white balance of your camera to the proper color temperature for your halogen lights? You should also be able to correct it in Photoshop, Gimp (freeware), or other post-processing software.

Cheers!

--Chris
Hey Chris

Whilst I *could* post process the images I should state that in my history of (standard) photography I have always been against this, I have a somewhat outdated view on photography that I blame on being the last of the 35mm generation. I learnt to take photos with an Olympus OM-10 and have always enjoyed the permanent nature of a 35mm shutter trigger, if you screw it up, you have no option but to learn from your mistake and try again another day.
I would far rather learn how to better light my subjects than rely on after effects (no offence intended to anyone that uses these methods, it's just personal preference)

That aside, my next thread was actually planned to be about budget lighting. If i manage to pick up the Schott fiber optic lamp i'm currently looking at this may become a bit of a moot point but being a man on a budget, cheaper options and bargain deals are my Forté. Time will have to tell on this one.

If anyone here has any info or opinions on Union microscopes i would love to hear them, I consider myself to be a fairly adept internet detective but am coming up largely blank on the model as a whole.
I know there was a lot of company 'incest' within Japan in the early 90's and that a lot of companies used molds and dies from other companies and so on and so forth. From what i have learnt the Examet design may have changed hands at some point and been taken on by Unitron (the similarity shocked me too), who now produce the Examet 4, based on the very model I have sat here.

Needless to say I still have a lot to learn but I think I may have found some cracking mentors :D

Thanks again!

Matt

Chris S.
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Location: Ohio, USA

Post by Chris S. »

Matt, I wasn't suggesting that you should do sloppy lighting and then attempt to clean it up in post. Rather, that in a digital workflow, setting the camera to the proper color temperature for the light source and then managing it in post are elements of solid technique. Like you and many of us here, I learned photography in the days of film, though not on anything so modern as an OM-10 (you had an internal light meter—luxury!) You might think of setting a digital camera's white balance to match the lights as the digital equivalent of choosing the appropriate film stock (i.e. daylight vs. tungsten) for your OM-10.
MattRandom wrote:Whilst I *could* post process the images I should state that in my history of (standard) photography I have always been against this. . . .
Hmm, image stacking 50 shots isn't post processing, but a color-balancing curve is? ;)

Good luck in acquiring the Schott FO gear. I use Schott Fostec lighting quite a lot—it's good stuff. Of course, with mine, even though I set the camera to the color temperature of the lights, I still often find the need for a modest color adjustment in post.

--Chris

rjlittlefield
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Location: Richland, Washington State, USA
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Post by rjlittlefield »

Matt, welcome aboard! :D

You've made a lot of progress in short order -- well done!

By way of introduction, I'm a greybeard rather like Chris S. I started shooting macro using an Argus C3 rangefinder camera, shooting through a magnifying glass and calculating how to focus and frame. A great learning experience, though not always an efficient way to make photos! That was back in the mid 1960's. I shot almost all film through 2004, then got hooked on DSLR because it gave me the high image quality of film combined with immediate feedback and the ability to do very cool things like computerized panorama stitching and focus stacking. My professional background is math & computer science. I used to be an R&D software developer for these folks: http://www.pnnl.gov/science/. These days I split my time between http://photomacrography.net and http://zerenesystems.com. Thanks for the kind words about Zerene Stacker. I wrote that one, so I'm always pleased when people like it. :wink:

About your digital camera, definitely do check to see what it provides for color balance options. Some of them provide only automatic white balance, but many also provide presets for the common light sources. Halogen is pretty close to incandescent, which is a common option. Best of all would be custom white balance, which you can calibrate from a blank slide. Just be sure in all cases to stay away from any dimming controls because dimming a halogen bulb also drops its color temperature way down.

Speaking as Admin here at photomacrography.net, I think your post here is fine. We do have a standard limit of 6 images & 3 posts per day in the image galleries, which is mostly to prevent any one person from flooding the galleries. In the technical forums, we allow unlimited images as long as each one is specifically discussed in the post. What you've posted here is very much in the spirit of a technical discussion, so no problem.

I hope this helps. Again, welcome aboard!

--Rik

MattRandom
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu Aug 09, 2012 8:17 am
Location: Portsmouth, England

Post by MattRandom »

Thanks for the tip's so far guys, Just to clarify my camera has white balance manual controls for red and blue levels, doesn't seem all that fine control though, should I be turning my halogen as bright as I can and then work on the exposure to bring it back down? previously I was only running the lamo on 2 or 3 out of 10 levels of power? this could go a long way to explaining the very warm colour temp.

The Schott lighting has already gone well out of by budget but i have some ideas for a budget setup that im going to test out, will post the results and build in a new thread when the parts arrive.

Another point i wanted to raise was capture software, im currently using a suite called scope photo, it's not very easy to do stacking as i have to go off a timer rather than selecting when i want the next frame to fire.
Are there any better (free of very cheap) options?
At the moment my money is going towards the lighting and towards my Zerene license as i only have 20 odd days left of the trial!

Thanks again guys

Matt

MattRandom
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu Aug 09, 2012 8:17 am
Location: Portsmouth, England

Post by MattRandom »

Just had another go, 112 stack, 5x objective with white balance etc tweaked as much as i can with current lighting, quite pleased with it although there is still lots of room for improvement!

Image
Click for original size.

rjlittlefield
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Post by rjlittlefield »

This last image is looking good.
should I be turning my halogen as bright as I can and then work on the exposure to bring it back down?
Yes, that sounds like a good approach. Full brightness will be closest to normal incandescent lights.
previously I was only running the lamo on 2 or 3 out of 10 levels of power? this could go a long way to explaining the very warm colour temp.
2 or 3 out of 10 is very low. That would probably be within reach of custom white balance on a DSLR, but it's very reddish compared to full brightness.
im currently using a suite called scope photo
...
Are there any better (free of very cheap) options?
Sorry, I can't help on that one. I have the feeling that often those USB eyepiece cameras require specialized software that only comes with the camera. If you can tell us make & model of the camera then perhaps somebody knows or can locate other software that will work with it.

--Rik

MattRandom
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu Aug 09, 2012 8:17 am
Location: Portsmouth, England

Post by MattRandom »

Budget lighting system shipped mostly today so expect a write up soon, in the mean time could anyone tell me how hard it would be to fabricate a slot mounting, rotating holder for these...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170882237158? ... 500wt_1414
Which I'm thinking might be a cheap way to try out Polarized light.

How precise would things have to be for a filter?
Access to 3D printing is a possibility...

MattRandom
Posts: 6
Joined: Thu Aug 09, 2012 8:17 am
Location: Portsmouth, England

Post by MattRandom »

Just another pictorial update with the old lighting set up.

Image

Definitely improving although I think a higher Res' camera is in order soon!

precertvideo
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Joined: Wed Mar 06, 2013 1:22 pm

Post by precertvideo »

Hello,

I have the same Union Examet-It is big isn't it! Who'd have thought 2 of these in the south of England-I mostly look at microchips with mine.

They offered at least 4 versions;
Brightfield with a B on the front (what I think we both have),
Bright & darkfield BD on front,
Brightfield plus transmitted BI on front,
Bright & darkfield plus transmitted illumination M on front (poss. Nomarski as well),
The darkfields use EPI type illumination.

I have a bino head for infinity objectives & 30mm eyepieces, plus a trino head for 210mm objectives & 23mm eyepieces.

From what I gather Union specialize in metallurgical microscopes, some upright some inverted, some old some new. All I have seen have been great, solid quality. Evidently Union make microscopes branded up for Unitron including the Examet we're talking about, but don't know who Unitron are really. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unitron

I have got an instruction manual pdf, sadly in Japanese, can make available if needed.

http://www.union.co.jp/english/index_e.html

Regards, Jonathan

johan
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Post by johan »

Hello gents,

I don't have a photographing microscope (yet) but I am in the same neck of the woods as both of you. Could I ask, where are you finding the low prices microscopes in the UK, could you ping me a mail?

Many thanks
My extreme-macro.co.uk site, a learning site. Your comments and input there would be gratefully appreciated.

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