Marine larvae photography and microscope selection

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JohnP
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Joined: Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:14 am
Location: UK

Marine larvae photography and microscope selection

Post by JohnP »

Hi! I’m new to the forum and would appreciate some advice on choosing the right microscope for photographing marine life. I’m a biology graduate with an interest in macro photography. I also volunteer at a local aquarium where I have access to animals like fish, crustaceans, echinoderms, cnidarians etc.

Recently I have started photographing fish and crustacean larvae using my Nikon D7000, 105mm macro lens, a set of extension tubes, flash unit and tripod. I also use 2 desk lamps with daylight bulbs and pieces of polystyrene to achieve reasonably good lighting. Here is an example of what I’ve been able to achieve so far using this set-up:




Image

I’m quite happy with the results of this set-up. However, having recently had the opportunity to study these animals under a microscope (borrowed from a local university), I could immediately see the benefits of using a microscope for this kind of photography work.

The microscope I used was a basic stereomicroscope with around x5 zoom magnification. The microscope obviously provided greater magnification than my macro lens and extension tubes, but the other main advantage was the ease of focusing through the eyepiece tubes (the image through my camera’s viewfinder is often very dim). Also, the microscope was far more comfortable to use than my current camera set-up, since I have to stand over my camera looking down vertically through the viewfinder.

So I am looking for advice as to what kind of microscope and camera attachment would be suitable for achieving photos similar to the one above, but with improved sharpness and magnification. The aquarium is looking to buy a new microscope for general observational purposes and I would like to be able to use it to photograph these animals so that the pictures can be used in the aquarium’s educational materials/displays.

I don’t think that I’ll need magnification greater than around x5 (I expect that I will do most of my photography between x2 to x5). I would also like enough room between the lens and subject to be able to easily change the position of the petri dish (or a similar container in which the animals are held). I would also like to continue using my dslr with the microscope, although I would consider changing it for a mirror-less compact if this made it easier for attaching to the microscope.

I’m not very familiar with microscope companies, so I’ve only looked at some of the leading brand names which I’m aware of like Olympus and Nikon. I was considering something like a Nikon SMZ800 with a P-Plan APO 0.5x or 1x objective, P-IBSS2 beam splitter, and a C-BD Bright/Darkfield Stand (to achieve similar lighting to the photo posted above). From reading other posts on this forum, I understand that stereomicroscopes are not the best choice for photography. However, since I won’t be going much above x5 magnification, will image quality not suffer too much? Or is there another microscope design/brand/set-up you would recommend?

Any thoughts or suggestions regarding this microscope or any other set-up which you think may be suitable for my needs would be much appreciated. Thank you.

Charles Krebs
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Location: Issaquah, WA USA
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Post by Charles Krebs »

John,

The instrument that sounds nearly ideal for your purpose is no longer made, but still very highly prized and sought after (and expensive).... a Wild M420 Macroscope with the 6:1 ApoZoom lens.
There's a brochure here (Wild was bought by Leica):
http://savazzi.freehostia.com/download/ ... ochure.pdf

I have an SMZ800 with the 1X achromat (NA=0.09) lens, and the IBSS2 splitter. The view is excellent, but the photography has not been that exciting. With a numerical aperture (NA) of 0.09 it would be best to limit the on sensor magnification to about 5X. However, when set up for a DSLR, with the "V-T Photoadapter" and a 2X projection style photo-eyepiece (the lowest Nikon makes for this use) the magnification range, on sensor that is recorded is 2X to 12.6X. (The basic zoom on the SMX800 ranges from 1X to 6.3X). I'm pretty sure you do not realize the full 0.90 NA untill the zoom sewtting is at or near maximum. So when set to provide a 5X magnification in the camera (2.5X on scope with 2X projection eyepiece) you are at a pretty small numerical aperture.

The P Plan Apo 1X has a NA 0f 0.10, and the P Plan Apo 0.5X has a NA of only 0.05. Because of the low NA, I would not consider the 0.05X P Plan Apo for photography (at least not for on sensor magnifications above only about 2x).

I tried a Plan Apo 1X on mine, and while the color correction was superior (as expected), the slight change in NA did not really provide sharper images (also as expected).

Because of the depth of DSLR bodies it would not be possible to project directly onto the sensor (ie. no projection photo-eyepiece used). It might be possible to set up direct projection into a mirrorless camera body. If so, it might turn out to a pretty good option for 1X to 6.3X photography with the P Plan Apo 1X lens. But there is nothing available "stock" to do this so it would have to be a DIY job or custom made. (And some careful measurements need to be made first to see the image is far enough above the tube opening on the IBSS2 to be able to mount a mirrorless camera in the correct location).

Nikon does make a c-mount 0.55X adapter for the IBSS2. So a camera with a 2/3" or 1" sensor could be used.

JohnP
Posts: 2
Joined: Sat Mar 02, 2013 9:14 am
Location: UK

Post by JohnP »

Thank you very much for your advice Charles, it’s a great help.

I was hoping you could help me with one point. I came across Nikon’s MXA29010 D-SLR F-Mount Adapter and MXA29011 F-TV Tube, which apparently provides a way of attaching a DSLR to the SMZ800 via the beam splitter (albeit a very expensive one!).

I was wondering if this is a form of direct projection and whether it would work with an APS-C sensor camera like my Nikon D7000? Or would there be some vignetting with this set-up (maybe a M4/3 camera would be better)?

The reason why I’m curious about this arrangement is would removing the 2X projection photo-eyepiece from the camera attachment set-up allow you to utilise more of the microscope’s zoom capability, thus improving picture quality? (My apologies if I’ve got this completely confused, I’m still trying to get my head around how microscopes work!)

Charles Krebs
Posts: 5865
Joined: Tue Aug 01, 2006 8:02 pm
Location: Issaquah, WA USA
Contact:

Post by Charles Krebs »

Best to check with a Nikon dealer, but my understanding is that Nikon’s MXA29010 D-SLR F-Mount Adapter and MXA29011 F-TV Tube are for their upright ("compound") microscopes and will provide a "direct projection" capability when used on the trinocular heads. The MXA29010 provides some of the electrical contacts that will permit Nikon bodies to meter (which many will not do with a basic T-mount). As you say it it not cheap.

Check out this page in regards to this adapter:
http://instrument-support.nikonusa.com/ ... icroscopes

Note especially the last sentence:
"The D-SLR camera + adapter combination is not compatible with stereomicroscopes. There is no adapter available for using D-SLRs on stereomicroscopes."

The reason why I’m curious about this arrangement is would removing the 2X projection photo-eyepiece from the camera attachment set-up allow you to utilise more of the microscope’s zoom capability, thus improving picture quality?
I believe your thinking is good in this regard. Especially on a stereo microscope where the maximum NA is usually quite modest and only reached at the maximum zoom setting. Especially if, as in your case, your photographic magnification needs are adequately covered by the inherent zoom range of the stereo module itself. On an APS-C sized sensor the image created by the stereo microscope optics should be large enough to "fill" the sensor (with perhaps need for a slight bit of corner cropping). If you don't need or want additional magnification, a 2X or 2.5X photoeyepiece only cuts your resolution in half (or worse).

This post has a diagram that shows nearly exactly how my SMZ-800 is set up for DSLRs, except I have a 2X CFI photoeyepiece. (Also see my response for some picture links done with the SMZ-800 set up as mentioned):
http://www.photomacrography.net/forum/v ... hp?t=16878

If you look at that photo-diagram, the microscope image will be positioned between the top edge of the P-IBSS2 camera port and the "V-T Photoadapter tube" (about where the red line cuts across). So there is not enough room to get a DSLR into the proper position for "direct projection" because of the 44-46mm body depth. For DSLRs you would need to come up with some sort of optical solution and I do not know of any "off-the-shelf" solutions. Most of the microscope manufacturers options these days are geared for cameras with smaller sensors than found in DSLRs.

One other thing you should be aware of it that most stereo scopes are really susceptible to camera induced vibration. So even though you are thinking in terms of fairly low magnifications, if you mount a DSLR (or even a mirrorless camera body) that does not have an "electronic-first-shutter-curtain" option, you should anticipate that you may need to use electronic flash for lighting, or if that is not possible, long shutter speeds (over 1 second).

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